Review: New Club, Brighton
Opposite the crumbling West Pier is a spacious, modern with a flavour of that now-ubiquitous rend for American diner style barbecue food and the dreaded “plates”.
We were very early so they changed menus over in the short time that we sat outside with a drink to peruse the food, but were very friendly about it and apologised.
We decided to eat indoors as it looked as though it might bucket down. I didn’t have very high expectations – it seemed quite hip, the young staff were very relaxed and were chatting to each other a lot (my only gripe is that this made service slow) and thought, here we go, another burger joint that is trying too hard. Still, I wasn’t in a hurry and enjoyed people watching outside.
When the food arrived I was impressed by the presentation. The Dirty Burger came over on greaseproof paper, sat in an enamel tin bowl, French fries came in a matching smaller tin and the slaw in a jam jar which gave a nice rustic look that, I admit although over used everywhere, does look cuter than a polystyrene McD’s carton. The burger cost £8.50 and they are made with 35 day aged locally sourced Hereford Beef. The patty was cooked slightly medium but it ws very juicy and still had the right amount of smokiness. Inside the glazed and toasted brioche bun was the right amount of sticky sweet hickory onion relish, melted Moneterey Jack cheese, shredded iceberg (the only type of lettuce that belongs in a burger!), pickled cabbage, gherkins and their own special house sauce. The fries were also perfectly crisp and well-cooked. The whole meal was utterley delicious and one of the nicest burgers I have had.
They also serve other American classics – mac ’n’ cheese, Caesar salad, smoked pulled pork, plus brunch or “hangover” options such as pancakes and bagels which would make a change from a fry-up in a Brighton caff.
This place has very quickly become popular and may well last the course, much to my misplaced expectations. Hope so!